Peterhead to Cruden Bay – Section 9 | Day 2

– mile marker

Today’s Route
Weather: (ideally) much as yesterday
Distance: 8.5 miles
Time: A leisurely two hours

“Peterhead Harbour, Peterhead Harbour, Admiral Redsocks. Over.
Aye, aye Admiral Redsocks, pass y’r message
Permission for Admiral Redsocks and Collies Cath to leave harbour, bound for Cruden Bay please. Over.
Aye, aye, aff y’ gang. A still think y’r daft, b’t good luck.
Thank you Peterhead Harbour, Redsocks listening out.”

And so our second day begins, out of ‘The Harbour Of Refuge’ and into the south-flowing tide for the short hop to Cruden Bay. We pass Boddam, where, according to the local fishermen, giant fish lurk in the warm outflow from the power station.

Boddam has a story that a ship of the Spanish Armada was wrecked here and the only survivor was the captain’s pet monkey. Because they could not understand it, the Boddamers presumed it to be a Spanish spy and hung it!

The Boddamers Hinged the Monkey’ told, and sung, by RowAround’s storyteller, Jan Bee Brown

In contrast to day one, we row along by spectacular granite sea cliffs which are well used by the local climbers as well as being home to colonies of puffins and guillemots, to name but two of our coastal birds.

The Bullers of Buchan village lies at the head of a deep inlet which is bridged by a natural arch at its seaward end. Legend has it that a man, for a bet, galloped his horse out to and then over the arch before returning to the village. When he sobered up and realised what he had done, he collapsed and died from shock.

Just before reaching Cruden Bay we pass New Slains Castle. The author, Bram Stoker, spent many holidays in Cruden and it is claimed that it was the inspiration for Castle Dracula.

Having got the tide right, we enter the drying harbour of Port Errol (Cruden Bay), make the boats fast, and repair to the hotel for a well earned drink.

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