Ardtoe to Arisaig – Section 5 | Day 3

Today we pack up our camp at Kilchoan and load all the tents and gear into the vehicles along with all the rowers, as our travelling camp shifts north to Arisaig. We drive the twisty road to Ardtoe where we left the boats yesterday, and the vehicles carry on north to Arisaig.

The wind is in the west today, and fresh enough to kick up small waves on Ardtoe beach as we launch and head north. Passing Farquhar’s Point we glimpse into Loch Moidart with its picturesque Castle Tioram but we are on a mission to get to Arisaig and can’t dally.

In the late morning we decide to take a break at the abandoned village of Smirisary just west of Glenuig where we find a little corner of shelter to land the boats on the beach. This is a pitstop before crossing the Sound of Arisaig where we will be some miles from land.

As can be seen the entrance to Arisaig is studded with rocks but we are curious about the scenery and looking forward to shelter from the wind and waves, which have now gone round to north of west. We creep in through the South Channel which fortunately is well marked for yachts with poles and markers.

Our destination is a campsite north of the Arisaig anchorage in Loch nan Ceall so we carry on into the North Channel which is really too shallow for yachts although fine for skiffs.

Finally we haul out on this gorgeous beach and gratefully head up to the camp site where our faithful shore crew have put up the tents!